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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.